Mairi Beautyman meets Miss Moss, Berlin’s very own corset maker…

Theatrical wardrobe touches – say a man wearing a hoody with sequined bunny ears recently spotted skipping the line at waterfront club Bar 25 – open doors in Berlin.

A tanked economy, an influx of artists and Flapper roots converge to make this city one that scoffs at fashion for the sake of a pricey designer label. Dressing up here is all about individualism – precision-scattering of one-off, hand-made, or vintage pieces. Throw in a feather or two, and you are in the game.

Which is why Miss Moss feels right at home. The British costume designer, who moved here in 2007, teaches the art of corset making at Linkle Stitch ‘N’ Bitch Café, a cosy street-front space in Kreuzberg packed with sewing machines serving the DIY set.

The sultry Miss Moss, who greeted me with a pale pink orchid in her flamingo-pink hair, has the natural born goods corsets are meant to showcase. “It’s easier with a C-cup or larger,” she admits. “But as long as you have something to work with.”

Miss Moss’s passion for corsetry began with a part time job as a Victorian-styled chambermaid at an old English castle. A historical costume designer was hired to give staff uniforms a revamp, and, in the process, inspired Miss Moss to study fashion design.

Most of her corsetry skills, however, were gleaned outside of class: “At my university, the professors really didn’t know how to teach the corsetry course, so I started working in a corset factory,” she explains.

Miss Moss is also frequently in Italy, where she interned at a historical costume studio and now peruses fabric shops, or in museums like London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, deconstructing by eye historical fashion once worn by the likes of Marie Antoinette.

What is a Corset?

So what exactly is a corset? “Sometimes I hear people say they are wearing corsets, but it’s actually a bodice,” says Miss Moss.  “A bodice is on the cheaper end of the market, and doesn’t last as long as a corset would. It has plastic boning, which bends and puckers. A corset has metal boning – it holds you up, and can restrict your breathing, depending on how tight you lace.”

There are two types of corset: the underbust and the overbust. The underbust stops under the breasts and sits on the hips. The overbust, on the other hand, starts at the hips and goes over the breasts.

Corsets became common in the middle of the 16th century, with tight lacing peaking in the Victorian age, around the 1840s and 1850s. The trend died out in popularity just after the start of World War I, due to health concerns and an effort to conserve metal for war production.

Now they are popular for period dress, in the fetish scene, or used to treat spinal injuries. Notable medical corset wearers include artist Andy Warhol, who wore a corset after he was shot in 1968 until his death.

What Makes a Good Corset?

Corsets, by their very nature, are custom. “It must fit well in the bust, waist, and hips. If a corset closes, then it is too big,” Miss Moss says. “You need room to lace it in the back — 2 centimeters at least.

“Usually the girls that have less prefer the overbust. For the voluptuous girls, I recommend the underbust, which really accentuates your waist, without making them hang out so much — this can be a bit embarrassing, and can, um, effect men’s behavior. But really, it depends how you want it.”

And fabric is key. Miss Moss orders from Italy or heads to Frau Tulpe in Prenzlauer Berg.

Are They Safe?

In this day in age, safety is only a concern if you go overboard, and start squeezing the organs into inappropriate places. A corset that is too tight constricts the lungs — making it difficult to breathe.

“If you wear a corset everyday, your waist changes,” says Miss Moss. “In the 19th century, the lacing was extreme, as the size of your waist determined the wealth of your husband and your social status. I used to wear my corset tight two hours a day and my waist gradually began to get smaller, and at first I was really proud of it. But I don’t want an odd shape – I want to be natural. It’s the choice of the modern women – in the old days, you didn’t have a choice.”

Miss Moss’s class is 190 euro for six three-hour sessions, and includes a steel bust, bones, inner fabrics, eyelets and lacing, and full use of the Linkle Stitch ‘N’ Bitch Café. Classes hold up to eight, and are usually held on Saturdays, although intensive courses run Monday through Saturday. Private lessons are also available.

Miss Moss sells her custom corsets for around 200 euros, depending on fabric. Dates for her next class will be posted at Linkle Stitch ‘N’ Bitch Café.

About The Author

Mairi Beautyman is senior editor at TreeHugger.com and PlanetGreen.com, and a regular contributor to Interior Design magazine and the Huffington Post. She has written for publications including Wired, Art News, Architectural Record, The Robb Report, and A Hedonist’s Guide To Marrakech.

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