American ex-pat Cynthia Barcomi moved to Berlin in 1985 as a professional dancer. She opened up her first cafe – Barcomi’s – in Kreuzberg’s Bergmannstrasse in 1994, which sold her own roasted coffee blend and home made cakes. A few years later she followed up with her Mitte branch, set in a beautiful ivy-covered courtyard close to Hackeschermarkt. Cynthia has also written three cookbooks full of her wonderful baking recipes…

Cynthia Barcomi (Photo: Maja Smend)

Where are you from in the States, and what brought you to Berlin?

I am originally from Seattle. I came to Berlin via New York City in 1985 where I’d just received my BA in theater and philosophy from Columbia University.

In a number of years you went from professional dancer to professional baker – how did that transition come about?

It was 1994 and I’d just given birth to my second daughter. I realized that I simply wanted to do something else in my life – roast coffee beans. The baking was more on the side in the beginning. The customers wanted more and more pastries so I had to adjust my concept a bit in order to find a dialogue with them.

What made you think American-style cake (and roasted beans) could do well in Germany, the “land of bakers”?

I just believed in what I was doing. I have always been true to myself. Baking and roasting coffee beans are an extension of that belief. I think, I can.

How long did it take you to learn German: did you find it easy or difficult?

Well, I did find it difficult to learn German. I always carried a little dictionary around with me and wrote down words I didn’t know. At some point, I started to use them! I was also in an international dance company and our common language was German.  Sink or swim.

Photo: Maja Smend

What kind of cakes/products did you make at the beginning and where did you sell them?

I began by selling brownies and cookies and KaDeWe and Wertheim when I was pregnant with my second daughter.

Your first venture was Barcomi’s in Kreuzberg: what was the initial reaction when you opened it?

I found people to be very curious, welcoming and a perhaps a bit skeptical at the beginning.  Every business that had been in my space had been a huge failure and there was nothing like Barcomi’s in Berlin.  There still isn’t, for that matter.

What are the main differences between the Kreuzberg and Mitte outlets?

In Kreuzberg it’s all about coffee beans and American pastries. Mitte encompasses the Bergmannstrasse and goes further in the direction of restaurant fare: soups, salads, sandwiches, and platters.

What kind of products does the Mitte Deli sell, and where do they come from?

I have one production kitchen in the Bergmannstrasse so we deliver ourselves. The products from the Deli all come from the Bergmannstrasse.

How much of what you sell are from original recipes (i.e. yours or your colleagues)?

All of what is sold in the stores is from me.  With the exception of one couscous salad, I do not use recipes of colleagues.  Barcomi’s has my stamp on it and I want to keep it that way.  Of course many things influence me, but the recipes are holy!

When did you start writing cookbooks — and what kinds of recipes can readers find in them?

I began my first of three books when I was pregnant with my fourth child, Savoy in 2007. The books reflect the food and pastries found in Barcomi’s but also go far beyond the selection we have in the stores.

Backen, by Cynthia Barcomi

How much have you been influenced by the German baking / food tradition?

I don’t think the food in Berlin is a strong reflection upon typically German food.  To that extent, I have focused more on my American roots rather than letting German food influence me.

What are your thoughts on the Slow Food movement? Do you endorse it or keep track of the movement in any way?

I guess I am not real fan of the word “slow”.  I do understand it is meant as juxtaposition to “fast” but I think it is a misnomer. I’m more focused on the idea of handmade goods in small quantities. I see my work as an alternative to industrially produced / processed food and coffee beans.

What kind of percentage of your products could you regard as made from “local” ingredients?

Butter, eggs, milk, and fruit – all of our fresh (as opposed to Philly cream cheese) products are local.

What are the main barriers to sourcing ingredients locally in Berlin?

I think a lot of produce has gotten so industrial that it has overtaken the small farmer. Artisanal cheese is something you’d sadly rarely see in Berlin.

Do you think Berlin is a good Slow Food city – or has it got potential to be?

Well, I think Berlin has potential. You need to educate the consumer and make new ideas accessible.  This is very important AND you need people who connect with what they’re doing. Enthusiasm is contagious.

Which are your favorite places to eat or have coffee in the city?

I only drink coffee and eat pastries at my own shops. I do like to eat at Grill Royal in Mitte. To be honest, with all the children, stores and work, I don’t have much time to go out and eat!

Can you name five favorite Slow places in Berlin?

Schlachtensee in Zehlendorf is fabulous for a bike ride or walk. The Guggenheim Museum in Mitte is great for a slice of culture. Sans Souci in Potsdam is wonderfully calming. The Botanical Garden in Dahlem is magical. Potsdamer Platz is perfect for movies in their original language.

Baking friends can find a recipe for Cynthia’s Chocolate Strawberry Muffins with Coconut here.

Barcomi’s Mitte
Sophienstrasse 21,
Mitte, Berlin
Tel: 030 2859 8363
Open: Mon-Sat 8-21, Sun 9-21
Map

Barcomi’s Kreuzberg
Bergmannstr. 21
Kreuzberg, Berlin
Tel: 030 6948138
Open: Mon-Sat: 9-24, Sun 10-24

About The Author

Paul Sullivan is a Berlin-based writer & travel photographer and the founder of Slow Travel Berlin. You can check out his personal website here and some of his photography galleries here.

Photo: Paul Sullivan

Despite taking up a healthy 350 square meters of an old brewery in the heart of Kreuzberg 61, you’re unlikely to come across Paasburg unless you’re heading specifically for it.

A mere thespian-lob from the excellent English Theatre on Fidicinstrasse, this low-key Weinhandlung is tucked away in a trade area behind the street’s attractive Altbauten.

Inside lie a wealth of wines and spirits from over 600 producers, mostly from the key European regions – France, Italy, Germany, Spain, Austria – but a healthy selection from South Africa, Chile and Australia too.

It’s a voluminous space that carries itself well. Classical music, wooden beams and friendly, attentive service lend the space a kind of rustic elegance, and it’s easy to navigate, the main wines separated by country and marked clearly with large cardboard signs that dangle from the ceiling.

Two things stood out as we browsed the Germany racks. One was the considered selection – a mix of classics (Heymann-Löwenstein, Christmann, Kuhn, Weil) and new producers (Franzen, Johanninger, Hexamer) that we didn’t know at all. The second thing was the price, which ranges from 6-10 euros per bottle, at least half of what you’ll pay for the same plonk in any restaurant, bar or smaller wine outlet.

Photo: Paul Sullivan

Behind the central cashier, another section offers slightly more specialist and vintage wines. Here you’ll find Heymann-Löwenstein Röttgen and Speri Amarone di Valpolicella, as well as a heady range of liquors, digestifs and aperitifs.

On the right (as you enter) you’ll also find an assembly of wooden tables and chairs, where you can taste some of the wines – the vast majority are available to try – and which the owners use for organised tastings and wine-accompanied menus (in conjunction with Kochschule Culiartis – see website and newsletter for more info).

An added bonus is that the staff speak great English and two of them – both ladies – are trained sommeliers. They’ll happily guide you through the selections and give recommendations, and you’ll get equal service whether you’re buying a couple of bottles or twenty cases. You’ll likely walk away with at least a case at these prices, especially considering there’s a 10% discount when you buy 12 bottles.

Near the seating area you’ll also find an open display of soils, rocks, minerals from (mostly) German suppliers, so you can see the physical differences in the terroirs; a small kid’s play room in case you decided to bring the family, and a library of wine books (German only).

The vast downstairs cellars not only also store wines but also host special “colour tastings” that employ various lighting techniques and specially made glasses to reduce the influence of colour on taste – apparently it confuses even the connoisseurs, who are used to letting colour guide their nose and palate.

(Foto: Paul Sulivan)

If you’re not local to the area, you could do worse than spending a bit of time in the neighbourhood. Nearby Chamissoplatz has a playground for kids, a small organic market on Saturdays and lots of gorgeous buildings untouched by WWII. If you’re here around lunchtime, tiny G wie Goulasch – corner of Arndtstrasse and Nostitzstrasse – sells hearty home-made goulash and soups (and some great Belgian beers).

A little further on is bustling Bergmannstrasse, one of Kreuzberg 61′s main arteries. We’d recommend a stop off at Turkish & Oriental deli Knofi (No. 11), where you can grab a tasty lunch or purchase some more exotic treats to enjoy later with your wine purchases.

Paasburg’s
Fidicinstr. 3
10965 Berlin
Tel: 030 691 30 75
Open: Mon-Fri 10-13 / 14-18; Sat 11-14

About The Author

Paul Sullivan is a Berlin-based writer & travel photographer and the founder of Slow Travel Berlin. You can check out his personal website here and some of his photography galleries here.