Photo: Paul Sullivan

Blink and you’ll miss G Wie Goulasch, an itsy eaterie on Chamissoplatz, the quiet square that lies around the corner from bustling Bergmannstrasse.

Occupying a small house on the corner of Arndtstrasse, it’s run by Andre Schmermbeck, whose simple business idea was to create a place that serves up hearty, home-made goulash. You know – the kind you get at grandma’s house.

It feels a bit like you’re in grandma’s home too, since the place is only big enough for three tables and a few stools that stand at a copper-covered bar. Behind the bar you’ll find Andre, warming up his tasty meals in a kitchen so rudimentary that the main cooking and prep is done off-site in a rented catering space.

Old telephones and enamel pots and pans pass for decoration, intensifying the sensation of a bygone era. Flowers protrude from beer glasses and jugs on simple wooden tables, and the large windows give good views onto the Platz outside.

Families are welcome – there are no kid’s seats but a war-era motorbike chair can be stacked onto a normal chair to achieve elevation. The menu, in keeping with the restaurant, is small but reliable. Choose from goulash in Roggenkrustchen (bread bowl), or served with thick, perfectly cooked noodles (Walznudeln).

Photo: Paul Sullivan

Or there’s a classic “szegediner” (pork and sauerkraut) goulash, that comes with parsley potatoes. And vegetarians can visit too as Andre makes a seitan goulash and a “grandma’s vegetable soup,” which can be taken with or without Mettwurst.

All the dishes are made from either bio ingredients or food bought from trusted local suppliers and really do have that authentic home made kick. There’s usually a dessert on offer (E3.50), and Andre can whip up a mean coffee should you want one. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are also on offer.

Of particular interest are the selection of Belgian beers (Duvel, Leffe Blonde, de Koninek) and the excellent – and strong – Trappist beers (Orval, Rochefort 10 and Le Trappe Dubble). The latter make a particularly suitable accompaniment to GWG’s tasty, robust fare.

(NB: If you visit on a Saturday morning you’ll find a small organic market on the other side of the square. And if you feel like stocking up on some wine, check out Paasburg’s Weinhandlung, also nearby).

G Wie Goulasch
Chamissoplatz 1
Berlin, Kreuzberg
Tel: 030 22 439 129
Open: 12-16, 18-22 daily (except Sundays)

About The Author

Paul Sullivan is a Berlin-based writer & travel photographer and the founder of Slow Travel Berlin. You can check out his personal website here and some of his photography galleries here.

Photo: Paul Sullivan

Despite taking up a healthy 350 square meters of an old brewery in the heart of Kreuzberg 61, you’re unlikely to come across Paasburg unless you’re heading specifically for it.

A mere thespian-lob from the excellent English Theatre on Fidicinstrasse, this low-key Weinhandlung is tucked away in a trade area behind the street’s attractive Altbauten.

Inside lie a wealth of wines and spirits from over 600 producers, mostly from the key European regions – France, Italy, Germany, Spain, Austria – but a healthy selection from South Africa, Chile and Australia too.

It’s a voluminous space that carries itself well. Classical music, wooden beams and friendly, attentive service lend the space a kind of rustic elegance, and it’s easy to navigate, the main wines separated by country and marked clearly with large cardboard signs that dangle from the ceiling.

Two things stood out as we browsed the Germany racks. One was the considered selection – a mix of classics (Heymann-Löwenstein, Christmann, Kuhn, Weil) and new producers (Franzen, Johanninger, Hexamer) that we didn’t know at all. The second thing was the price, which ranges from 6-10 euros per bottle, at least half of what you’ll pay for the same plonk in any restaurant, bar or smaller wine outlet.

Photo: Paul Sullivan

Behind the central cashier, another section offers slightly more specialist and vintage wines. Here you’ll find Heymann-Löwenstein Röttgen and Speri Amarone di Valpolicella, as well as a heady range of liquors, digestifs and aperitifs.

On the right (as you enter) you’ll also find an assembly of wooden tables and chairs, where you can taste some of the wines – the vast majority are available to try – and which the owners use for organised tastings and wine-accompanied menus (in conjunction with Kochschule Culiartis – see website and newsletter for more info).

An added bonus is that the staff speak great English and two of them – both ladies – are trained sommeliers. They’ll happily guide you through the selections and give recommendations, and you’ll get equal service whether you’re buying a couple of bottles or twenty cases. You’ll likely walk away with at least a case at these prices, especially considering there’s a 10% discount when you buy 12 bottles.

Near the seating area you’ll also find an open display of soils, rocks, minerals from (mostly) German suppliers, so you can see the physical differences in the terroirs; a small kid’s play room in case you decided to bring the family, and a library of wine books (German only).

The vast downstairs cellars not only also store wines but also host special “colour tastings” that employ various lighting techniques and specially made glasses to reduce the influence of colour on taste – apparently it confuses even the connoisseurs, who are used to letting colour guide their nose and palate.

(Foto: Paul Sulivan)

If you’re not local to the area, you could do worse than spending a bit of time in the neighbourhood. Nearby Chamissoplatz has a playground for kids, a small organic market on Saturdays and lots of gorgeous buildings untouched by WWII. If you’re here around lunchtime, tiny G wie Goulasch – corner of Arndtstrasse and Nostitzstrasse – sells hearty home-made goulash and soups (and some great Belgian beers).

A little further on is bustling Bergmannstrasse, one of Kreuzberg 61′s main arteries. We’d recommend a stop off at Turkish & Oriental deli Knofi (No. 11), where you can grab a tasty lunch or purchase some more exotic treats to enjoy later with your wine purchases.

Paasburg’s
Fidicinstr. 3
10965 Berlin
Tel: 030 691 30 75
Open: Mon-Fri 10-13 / 14-18; Sat 11-14

About The Author

Paul Sullivan is a Berlin-based writer & travel photographer and the founder of Slow Travel Berlin. You can check out his personal website here and some of his photography galleries here.