Molly Hannon checks out a new Kreuzberg dining spot that fuses rock & roll with traditional cuisine and local produce…
“Primitive Rock ‘n’ Roll and Fine food” is the Three Sisters’ motto. However, upon entering the restaurant, one senses there is nothing primitive about this place.
It looks more like an old style ballroom reminiscent of the American South, with its high lofty ceilings, whitewashed walls, long oak bar, and a small stage with a grand piano. (This Southern American felt quite at home, at least…)
Three Sisters is another example of the growing number of Berlin spaces where art and food collide happily. With its unique fusion of blues-style swing music and traditional German cuisine, this young venture is a testament to the city’s ingenuity when it comes to the arts – including the art of eating well.
My first encounter with the restaurant was bittersweet: a farewell dinner for a colleague and dear friend. We had both heard about the restaurant through our Slow Food network and anticipated quality food of the traditional German variety; that the latter is not necessarily something the faint of heart is definitely something to bear in mind here – one can easily split entrées and appetizers and leave feeling very satisfied.
With traditional dishes such as pickled herring, pork roast with coleslaw and dumplings, spaetzle, and schnitzel with asparagus, the Three Sisters’ menu manages to remain authentic and interesting.
More importantly, it makes a concerted effort to source locally. Much of its produce comes from its native Kreuzberg neighborhood. The fish comes from the Hal and the wine from an array of smaller producers. Although the apple-fed pig is not certified organic, it is the next best thing.
“We’re young,” explains Wolfgang Sinhart, one of the owners alongside White Trash Fast Food ‘s Michael Bohl. “Only ten months old, so we are just learning. But we make a concerted effort when it comes to quality ingredients. This goes for the music too. We want a space where things can happen fluidly and naturally but we also have to set the bar high. Our food is good and I think it will get better in time. We look forward to meeting new producers, sourcing wine from other regions and testing out new recipes. I think of it as a learning experience. Plus, we’re not beholden to German cuisine. Our chef Patrick Pecker is good at branching out and drawing from other influences. He worked in a vegetarian restaurant for a couple of years and likes to incorporate different ingredients into his cooking. This pairs well with the more traditional stuff we feature on the menu.”
Our meal began with two fantastic appetizers: the pickled herring and the cheese spaetzle. The herring was minced and came with a Granny Smith and radish herb rémoulade with fried potatoes on the side. It was neither too heavy nor too light and went down well with my glass of Gruner Vertliner.
We followed these with schnitzel and white asparagus with hollandaise sauce. The asparagus was just as hearty as the schnitzel and the hollandaise sauce was a nice complement. Incredibly we managed a dessert as well – an apple crumble with more fruit than crust and a light swirl of vanilla syrup.
“We try to change the menu two times in each season,” comments Sinhart. “However, this could easily change in the next year but for now we’re happy with the current momentum and direction. We want this place to remain casual but at the same time inviting. Thus far, we seem to draw in clientele who want to sit down and have a nice meal as well as clientele that are younger and more interested in the music aspect. Interestingly enough, it works. The neat thing is this place supports that.”
The Three Sisters is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner as well as brunch on the weekends. There is also an ice cream stand located outside in front of the building, a perfect destination for summer park goers. The ice cream is both local and organic, from Tage in Krezuberg. And if you’re craving something else sweet, there is always coffee and cake in the afternoon.
The restaurant has some interesting associations too. Located in Marianplatz 2 (in Kreuzberg), it was once part of an old hospital; its name is hence a tribute to the nuns who once lived and worked there, as well as a nod to Bohl’s favorite Chekhov play.
All images courtesy of The Three Sisters
The Three Sisters
U: Kottbusser Tor
T: 030 600 318 60
Open: Mon-Sun from 11