A guide to some of our favourite German forests to get lost in…
The German fascination with forests goes back at least as far as AD9, when German tribal leader Arminius (Hermann) defeated the invading Romans in the Teutoburg Forest. This legendary battle, in which three legions under the command of general Publius Quinctilius Varus were decimated, put an end to the Roman Empire’s plans to control German lands beyond the river Rhine.
The story of this battle has been handed down to us by various Roman historians, including Tacitus in his Germania (AD98), where he describes the former Germanic territories as characterised by dark and mysterious forests. His tale resurfaced in the eighteenth century as part of a narrative push towards German nationalism and eventual unification, entwining the mythology of the forest with German consciousness and identity more tightly.
The Romantics helped further secure the sacred relationship between Germans and nature, with many of them focusing particularly on the seductive, redemptive and occasionally minatory aspects of the forest: see the poetic works of Joseph von Eichendorff and Heinrich Heine, the fairy tales of the Brothers Grimm and the paintings of Caspar David Friedrich. The German oak became a symbol of national strength during this time and woodlands also became an integral feature of Wagner’s ‘volkisch’ operas.
Although much has happened within Germany since unification in 1871, the forest remains close to many German hearts, mostly these days as a symbol of inner healing—a retreat from social pressures and the bustle of urban living. The country happens to be one of the most densely wooded in Europe, with around a third (over 11 million hectares) designated as woodland. In fact, forests have even increased by more than a million hectares in Germany over the past five decades, though in recent times they have also become victims of climate change and invasive beetle species, leading to what is known as Waldsterben, or forest death.
But despite more German trees dying in 2020 than in any other year since surveys were begun in 1984, a blend of concerted conservation efforts, eco-activism and regeneration is helping them bounce back. Each state has its own special forests to be proud of, from the pine-filled woodlands of the north, the deciduous trees of the lower mountain ranges and coastal areas, and the spruces found in the south. And they continue to provide a safe habitat for game animals, rare birds, amphibians and reptiles, as well as insects, soil organisms and endangered plants.
Below, in no particular order, are some of our favourites to get lost in…
Teutoburg Forest/Egge Hills
Let’s begin with one of the most mythical of German forests, the one where Germanic tribes led by Arminius famously beat the Romans back from the Rhine. Today the 4,000 square kilometre spread of beeches and spruce trees is a decidedly peaceful place; a gentle collection of hills, small lakes and sandstone rock formations once used by pagans. If you’re fit, you can take on the