Slow Guide to Munich

Jenny Seifert gives some tips on how to travel slowly in the Bavarian capital…

It’s easy to understand why people flock to Munich. The city is a veritable museum of iconic landmarks and German stereotypes (think Lederhosen and Oktoberfest, both strictly Bavarian phenomenon, as any non-Bavarian German will assure you).

But not all of the city’s paths are so well trodden. For visitors wanting to experience some quintessential Bavarian charm, but also seeking a more authentic taste of life in and around Munich, here are some suggestions…

Take a walk in a park

Autumn foliage in English Garden. Image by Jiuguang Wang via Wikipedia.

Munich takes leisure seriously, which is perhaps evident in the well-kept appearance of many of its parks. Of them, the Englischer Garten is, of course, king. Formerly a playground for hunters, it is now one for urbanites, and is rich in both historical significance and landmass: at 417 hectares, it is Europe’s largest urban park, and not far behind in worldwide rankings.

With an extensive network of paths that weave through vast meadows and tufts of forest, the park is an ambler’s paradise. Most people, however, congregate in the park’s Sudteil, the half closest to the city center, and so strolling to the park’s less-crowded, much quieter Nordteil—its “better half,” in my opinion—reveals the full glory of this masterpiece. A real delight is stumbling upon the Nordteil’s very own herd of sheep, which help keep the meadows cropped. Just watch where you put your feet…

While not exactly off the well-trodden tourist map, another fantastic park for a stroll is Schlosspark Nymphenburg. The backyard of the Bavarian royal family’s excessively extravagant summer palace, this carefully landscaped swathe of green space is enchanting with its secluded miniature palaces, murky canals and ponds, and gaggles of waterfowl.

Most tourists seem stuck to the fountains and statues immediately behind the palace, but the paths in the park’s forested periphery see the feet of a more local sort: joggers, Nordic walkers, mommies with strollers, and elderly benchwarmers. Here, the park’s design quite strictly regulates one’s ramblings (in fact, signs forbid people from stepping foot off the paths), and strategically placed benches direct visitors’ gazes upon the ponds, fields and trees.

Both the Englischer Garten and the Schlosspark are enticing even during the colder months, and I’ve experienced both parks bustling with Münchners on separate snowy Sunday afternoons. What is more: there’s always Glühwein on hand to warm hands and bellies.

Grab a bike and head to the water

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