Kirstin Gernath visits Berlin’s swimming pool in the Spree…
Badeschiff – literally “bathing ship” – opened in 2004 as an art project organized by Berlin’s Stadtkunstprojekte (City Art ProjectSociety), the AMP Architectos (Teneriffa), architect Gil Wilk and local artist Susanne Lorenz. The initial aim was to enliven city life along what was then a long-neglected stretch of the Spree, between the former Osthafen (East harbour) and Flutgraben, a small canal.
The pool is part of a complex of old industrial buildings that were slowly redesigned by the organisation Art Kombinat (now ARENA Berlin), from 1995 onwards. The 20,000 square-meter area today hosts an exhibition hall (MAGAZIN) and venue (GLASHAUS) as well as the big concert hall ARENA – a great example of Berlin’s industrial culture during the first half of the 20th century.
Until the German reunion in 1989, this area was only accessible for BVG (Berlin Transportation Company) members in possession of a special permit and DDR Grenzschutz soldiers. It was part of the “Sperrgebiet” (prohibited zone) between East and West Berlin, since the border ran along the Flutgraben and the Spree.
Underwater gate constructions made it impossible to use this area as a point to flee from the eastern district now called Friedrichshain to western Kreuzberg or Treptow. After the wall came down, the area slowly turned into a center for fun, art and entertainment.
From the buzzing Schlesische Straße in Kreuzberg, I took the pathway that follows the small canal and passes between two of Berlin’s great open air summer spots: The terrace restaurant/bar Freischwimmer and the techno-lovers bar Club der Visionäre.
Already plotting a cooling cocktail for after my dip, I followed the signs to the Badeschiff, walked past the MAGAZIN, with its distinctive shed roof and huge windows, and the GLASHAUS next door (which is partly used for the Badeschiff facilities and as a venue), until reaching the Badeschiff gate, where I could already see the sand – as well as a long queue.
What I hadn’t realised was that the venue holds live concerts in the summer called “Ohne Strom“ (“Unplugged”). Fortunately the queue diminished swiftly and I was soon shuffling my feet through the pleasantly chilled sand. I got changed into my swim gear and made my way, via three boardwalk platforms, down to the pool.
The light, clear-blue water of the Badeschiff – which is an impressive 32 x 8 meters large – shimmered with an appealing, almost supernatural quality – a flourescent lozenge embedded audaciously in the natural river. On the other side of the Spree, old and new buildings – offices, loft houses, old industrial architecture – winked and glinted in the sun.
Unfortunately it was too crowded to swim more than a few laps but that wasn’t my aim this evening anyway. Myself and my friends took a place on the underwater bench that runs all around the pool and had a relaxed after-work chat as the sun made its apathetic descent.
The skyline from this vantage point was filled with the Oberbaumbrücke, the landmark of the two districts Kreuzberg and Friedrichschain, and Alexanderplatz’s Fernsehturm. The gentle strums of the concert made their way to us from the beach area further up, providing a chilled soundtrack to what was becoming a classic Berlin summer evening.
The simple menu at Badeschiff won’t excite gourmets, but the sausages and steaks in Brötchen with classical German sides like potato salad and Krautsalat (cabbage salad) at least mean you don’t have to leave to get dinner elsewhere if you’re enjoying yourself.
Of course the food isn’t the reason to go there. Aside from the music and the general atmosphere, the bar offers a decent range of drinks and cocktails, which you can sip while relaxing on one of the four steel beds or the numerous sun chairs. If you’re lucky – or just damn quick – you can snuggle into the oversize sunbed chair or the double Hollywood swing on the beachy sand area next to the bar.
From there you can also ascend the steps to two other platforms – one right above the stage and the other in the bar building attached to the big ARENA concert hall. From both you get spoiled with pleasant views over the entire beach club, pool and skyline. When it gets dark the whole area is nicely lit, with spotlights brightening the remarkable architecture of the GLASHAUS next door. Don’t forget to take your camera.
If you don’t like crowds (it’s busy almost every evening in the summer), but want to check out the Badeschiff you can visit in the morning. Yoga fans might be interested in the sessions of dynamic yoga given by Susen Pijur from the Yoga School Berlin, every Friday morning between 9-10am (6 euros). It’s a very nice way to start a summer day with exercise and a dive into the Europe’s most unique city pool.
The program at Badeschiff changes daily. Check out the website to find more information about concerts, open air cinema and club parties.
12435 Berlin Treptow
S: Treptower Park
T: 0152 05 94 57 52
Open (summer): 1st May- 30th Sept, 8am-end daily
Admission: €5 adults; €2 kids aged 6-12; kids under 6 are free