Beer hiking experts Dan Cole and Yvonne Hartmann recommend five pub walks from their book…
Readers of this website will already know that we’re big fans of walking in and around Berlin—and, as various posts also testify to—are also partial to a decent beer. It was therefore difficult not to do a double-take when we found out about Beer Hiking Berlin, a book that combines both. Produced by writer Dan Cole and photographer Yvonne Hartmann, the project presents no less than forty routes that match scenic hikes with visits to local brewpubs.
“I came to Berlin from Bristol over fifteen years ago,” says Dan. “I was working as a manager in the music scene before eventually entering the world of journalism. As a writer, I’d been thinking about writing a book for a long time, and combining my two favourite activities—hiking and drinking—seemed like the best thing to do. I already had a book called Beer Hiking Bavaria in my library and met the authors when we went to southern Germany. When the opportunity came up to write the next instalment in the series, the publisher actually reached out to us—the perfect excuse to visit every single brewery in Berlin!”
“I’ve been a creative within the music scene for over a decade, which is where I met Dan,” adds Yvonne. “We were both into hiking and, somewhat, drinking, and started working on this project with our blog. Beer Hiking Berlin was a great opportunity to combine my love for traveling, photography and Berlin. After twelve years of living here, it was a refreshing new way to discover the city, its diverse landscapes and craft beer scene.”
The book contains route descriptions, mini-profiles of the breweries, maps and other useful and entertaining info. Below are five highlights directly from the authors; if you like what you read, there’s a link at the end of the article to purchase the book…
Tegeler Fließ // Two Fellas Brewery
When putting together the book, Tegeler Fließ was one of the first routes we made sure to include. It’s amazing to think that such an area of exquisite beauty lies with the city’s boundaries. Protected waterways, bountiful wildlife, wildflower fields, and farms; this walk really has it all. The cream of the walk is when you take it through Lubars, the oldest village to be encompassed by the Greater Berlin Act. Being in Lubars is like stepping back in time.
To connect the walk with a local brewery, we linked it up with the Mauerweg in Pankow, as it runs along the old railway line in Rosenthal, which will soon be reactivated. We finished the walk at the Two Fellas Brewery, a really welcoming brewhouse set up by a couple of home brewers from Chicago looking to do their own thing. The place has a tiny micro-brewery next to the entrance, and pretty much only stocks locally-brewed beers on tap. And on special nights the guys run a Chicago deep-pan pizza night, which as far as I know, is the only place to get this authentic dish in the whole of Berlin.
DIRECTIONS
Leaving the Waidmannslust S-Bahn station, head east on Waidmannsluster Damm, and then immediately north on Artemisstraße. After 500m, turn right onto the Barnimer Dörferweg on the Tegeler Fließ walkway. After 200m cross over Berliner Straße, and follow the signposted path for 200 meters, turn right onto Entenbrücke, and then immediately left. After 1km, cross Am Freibad and continue directly forwards for 500m. At the proceeding junction, proceed directly in front of you, following the Barnimer Dörferweg. At the junction at Alt-Lübars, follow the road straight on and take the immediate left turn, still following the Barnimer Dörferweg. After 1km, turn south on the Berlin Mauerweg and follow south for 3km until Wilhelmsruher Damm; cross over to Uhlandstraße and follow for 1km to Buchhorsterstraße. Follow for 500m, turn south on Schönholzer Weg for 1km and head direct into the Volkspark. Follow the path south parallel to Friesenstraße and towards Heinrich-Mann-Straße. Follow for 1km, turn left on Breite Straße, and immediately follow south on Mühlenstraße. Follow directly south for 1km until Two Fellas Brewery
Theodor-Fontane-Weg // Woltersdorf Schleusenbrauerei
As long as you count Erkner as a part of Berlin, this hike also falls in the category of stunning walks. Just outside the town is one of the many pathways dedicated to the German author, Theodor Fontane. And quite fittingly, the waterside walkway is littered with quotes and excerpts from his writing. It’s a beautiful synergy, as the walk itself winds through a small, forested area with occasional views of the stunning waterway poking through the overgrowth. The walk eventually ends up in the Brandenburg village of Woltersdorf, a sort-of Tuscan Riveria-like, holiday town, where the waters are dotted with luxurious yachts and cruisers. This kind of beauty really shouldn’t be so accessible, or close to Berlin, but it is.
On the other side of the lock, that cuts the village in half, is the oldest tram in Berlin, which has been running since 1913, from Woltersdorf all the way along Muggelsee to Köpenick. The hike itself finishes at the Woltersdorf Schleusenbrauerei, which as the name suggests, sits on the lock. It has a very traditional, yet high quality restaurant, with a stunning beer garden perched on the waters. Many beer lovers will come on a pilgrimage to this local brewery to sample their seasonal beers, especially their Märzen, which is malty and aromatic.
DIRECTIONS
Leaving the Erkner S Bahn station, turn right on Bahnhofstraße, and left onto Friedrichstraße. Turn right on Beuststraße, then right onto Ernst-Thälmann-Straße and follow until Fürstenwalder Straße. Take a right and follow for 400m then turn left onto Theodor-Fontage-Weg. Follow the waterside path for 2.7km, then turn left onto An d. Schleuse, crossing the water. Go north on Schleusenstraße for 700m, turn right on Parkstraße, then left on Kalkseestraße. Head north for 1.7km until Badestelle Woltersdorf Kalksee. Head south on Richard-Wagner-Straße, and turn right onto Beethovenstraße. Follow for 500m, then turn right onto Interlakenstraße and left on Rüdersdorfer Straße. After 1 km turn left on Rudolf-Breitscheid-Straße and follow for 1 km until Schleusenbrauerei.
Müggelsee // Ratskeller
If you’re into walking, at some point you must have considered walking around Müggelsee. Well, we did it, and it’s entirely worth it. Once you’ve left Friedrichshagen (heading in an anti-clockwise direction), and passed through the famous Spreetunnel. the walk follows the banks of the lake, arriving at Kleiner-Müggelsee—the better of the two Müggelsees. A bit farther on you have to take a manned paddle-boat, operated by the BVG, across the water to the tiny fishing village of Rahnsdorf. When we were writing this book the old smoked-fish sheds and restaurant were still there, but sadly they recently burnt down. In the spring and summer months, there are still trucks selling fish and pickles at real Brandenburg prices.
Through the old village, follow the lake through the Strandbad Müggelsee, which has sadly seen better days, before arriving back at Friedrichshagen. The new Ratskeller Brewery, is actually the most recent addition to the city’s brewing scene. It was set up by a local collective to breathe life into the old Town Hall that was previously unused. It’s a beautiful setting, with artworks still lining the wall from the 1800s. Traditional German beers, along with their very particularly branded Viennese lager, make this one of the best places to get a beer in East Berlin.
DIRECTIONS
From Friedrichshagen station, head south on Bölschestraße for 1.5km. Turn left on Müggelseedam, before taking the first right on Josef-Nawrocki-Straße, before arriving at the Spreetunnel. Head through the Spreetunnel before arriving at the other side of the Müggelspree. Follow the water’s edge in an anti-clockwise direction for 6km. At the end of the path at Müggelhort, turn right and head on Straße zum Müggelhort, follow for 800m, then turn left on Zu den Müggelheimer Wiesen, and turn left again on Zur Fähre. At the end of the road, take the BVG ferry across the Müggelspree. Head directly on Kruggasse, turn right on Dorfstrasse for 500m, turn left on Lachsfang, then left again on Aalsteig. After 750m, turn right on Seestraße, then immediately left on Brückenstraße, and left again onto the woodland path. After 150m, turn right, then after 200m turn left towards the beach. Follow the lakeside path anti-clockwise on Strandbad Müggelsee for 1km, turn right onto Müggelseedam, and turn left and follow for 2.5km. Turn right onto Bölschestraße, head north for for 1km before arriving at Brau- & Genusswerkstatt Berlin-Friedrichshagen.
Spandauer Forst // Brauhaus Spandau
Starting in Henningsdorf, we joined together the Haveluferweg and the Mauerweg, to put together a walk that linked the northern part of the city to Spandau. I think a lot of Berliners forget that the Havel even exists but it’s easily the more majestic and picturesque of Berlin’s major rivers. This prim and proper part of Berlin, with its lush, large houses, pristine gardens and elaborate jetties makes for a part of Berlin that many of us struggle to even believe is real. We then sojourned off the Haveluferweg to go directly through Spandauer Forst, across swamps, fields roamed by horses, and through the nature park—where in the spring you can feed the little baby boars.
We then joined the pathway back to the Havel, following it into Spandau and to Brauhaus Spandau. Ask any Berlin beer-snob, and they will tell you that the Brauhaus Spandau is one of the best breweries in the city. They offer new seasonal beers every month, in addition to their Havelbräu, a lush amber kellerbier, offered all-year round. For those lucky enough, you’ll get to see the brewmaster busying away at work in the restaurant, conjuring next month’s special brew. Needless to say, the traditional kitchen is outstanding as well. One of the perks of living in Spandau.
DIRECTIONS
Leave Henningsdorf station heading west through the town square and head south on Rathernaustraße for 850m. Head south on Spandauer Allee for 1.9km, before following the riverside path Uferpromenade for 3.6km. Follow the Berlin Wall path around Jagdhaus Spandau, turn right, then left and cross Niederneuendorfer Allee. Follow the path into Spandauer Forest and follow for 2.5km. Cross Schönwalder Allee, follow for 230m, and turn right after Kuhlake. Follow to Schönwalder Allee, turn right and follow for 1.8km. Turn left at Askanierring and follow for 1.1km. Follow Havel promenade for 1.5km, turn right on Wröhmännerstraße and south on Neuendorfer Straße for 350m.
Dogwalk (to Brewdog)
Just south of Südkreuz is the Hans-Baluschek Park, which is kind of tucked away in between all the uglier, industrial monstrosities you’ll find lurking in this part of town. The park itself is a thing of beauty, with a stunning view across the Kleingartens, and relics from the city’s stream-train era on the other side of the tracks. Coming out of the park by the antiquated and beautiful Priesterweg, follow the old railway tracks to Teltow canal, and follow the beautiful waterway in a westerly direction, before crossing the industrial-era Mariendorfer Hafensteg bridge.
The thing that shines the most on this particular walk is the Brewdog European HQ, located in an old Gaswerk warehouse. Say what you will about Brewdog, this 2.500 m² hall, with innumerable taps, bowling alleys, a beer museum, restaurant and garden is one of the most extensive locations for beer lovers from across the world. It’s also far from any U- or S-Bahn station, making it a prime location for beer hiking.
DIRECTIONS
Exit Südkreuz station at the main entrance, turn immediately left onto the footpath and follow it up over the motorway. Follow the path south through Hans-Baluschek Park for 2km. Exit the park at Priesterweg, turn left at Prellerweg and follow until Röblingstraße. Follow Röblingstraße south for 1km until you reach the Teltow canal, and head East for 1km. Cross the footbridge and follow the walkway south for 1km until you reach Brewdog Dogtap.